The story of a hand-turned, hand-carved Laffing Horse crochet hook.
Most of my crochet hooks start as a tree. Seriously… I know ALL wooden crochet hooks start as a tree, but how many folks do you know that go out and harvest said tree?
From this:
Once harvested, the tree is cut into 18″ lengths. This length allows some drying to occur without damaging the ‘heart’ of the wood. It’s also an ideal length to cut down into two sections should there be no damage to the ends in the drying process. It’s also the right length for my woodstove.
Some folks coat the wood with a sealer to slow down the drying and prevent checking. I guess I figure I’ve got enough wood I don’t really worry about it too much.
To this:
Once the wood had dried a while (a lot depends on the type of wood, when harvested, how it was stored, etc.) I split it. Not with a chainsaw or bandsaw, but an axe. Rough edges are then knocked off with a hatchet. I also knock off the bark. The split sections are cut to length (between 9 and 14 inches – the largest piece I can turn on my Jet Mini Lathe. I have a larger lathe (not my lathe, but the same model), but I can’t think of anyone that wants a 36″ long crochet hook. I then eyeball the center and make a mark with an awl on both ends. I have a center finder and that works great on round or square wood, but not so well on rough stock. One end gets the awl tapped in gently with a mallet. The other end gets the live center, or spur, from my lathe driven in with the same mallet.The chunk of wood is then place in the lathe.
And this:
I start with a big gouge and keep the lathe spinning slowly while I get it down to round. This can often take around 30 minutes. Sometimes it takes more time if the wood is extraordinarily hard as I’ll have to switch gouges and sharpen them, too. Really hard wood can take even the best edge off of a gouge in minutes!
Once it’s round, I use a skew to smooth it out. Using a ruler and pencil I mark off the segments… two-inches for the head and throat, on-and-a-half-inches for the thumbrest, about 4 inches for the shaft and any embellishments. Overall, my crochet hooks run in the neighborhood of seven- inches. Store bought crochet hooks most often are six-inches and those just seem too small.
Using a smaller gouge, I create the profile. Once the profile is completed I turn to a very small skew to gently shave off the wood until it is the correct diameter as measured by a set of calipers. I generally make the hook about one-mm larger than the finished size. The rest will come off later. This step can take up to another 30 minutes and this step is also the most frustrating… I’ve lost more crochet hooks to catches (bad cuts when the tip of the chisel digs into the wood)! When the wood is only six-mm across, the slightest shake or wrong move can cause it to split… or shatter. Sometimes, the wood will start to bow from the centrifugal force or the pressure from the two centers. That make for some interesting turning! Oh, well, it makes good kindling.
Now that the crochet hook is about the right shape and size, I add whatever embellishments I want to add. Sometimes it’s delicate spires and finials. Other times, I’ll add a captive ring. Once in a while, I’ll leave it alone and carve it by hand after I’ve taken it off the lathe. Depending on the complexity of the additions, this step can take from two minutes to another 30.
The hook is then sanded with about 4 grades of sandpaper starting at around 100 grit and ending up at around 600 grit. It’s in the sanding the the additional material is taken off. It’s measured often at this stage to make sure I don’t get too small. It’s also possible to apply too much pressure with the sandpaper and break the hook here, too. It doesn’t pay to be hasty or to leave large grooves from the gouges or skews. However, all the sanding is almost pointless as the wood is spinning around, against the grain. no matter how fine a grit of sandpaper I use, there are always some scratches around the hook. That’s OK. After I carve to hook, I sand everything, again, with the grain to try to eliminate the worst of these marks.
I apply one coat of an oil and beeswax finish while the hook is still on the lathe. This is silly, I know, as the hook’s going to get carved and sanded again, but it gives me an idea of the final finish and also allows me to get into the parts of the hook that I sometimes can’t reach with my fingers and paintbrushes (which I use to apply the same finish after the hook is off the lathe and carved).
The hook is carved and the neck and hook are sanded by hand until they are the right gauge. I measure this with a handy-dandy Susan Bates knit check (which provides measurements in US, metric, letter and more for both knitting and crochet… of course, I also have a chart on the wall and the calipers).
I use a sander to remove the excess wood of the thumbrest, and an engraver to mark the size. Then it’s back to sanding… and sanding… then some mroe sanding. Finally, I put on another coat of the oil and beeswax mix and let that set for about 30 minutes before I rub on a solid beeswax block and buff.
And voila!




Now comes the really hard part! I have to price it and sell it. This hook is a little more ornate than some… very nice, IMHO… I’d have to ask about $30. but that’s cheap… Let’s see. Time for harvesting and cutting and drying and splitting and trimming and turning and finishing… all told, about 6 hours. And, that’s assuming that it all went right the first time… Hey! I’m making less than minimum wage here
Yeah, but I’m lovimng what I’m doing!
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